by Christopher D. Cook and John Rodgers
Agribusiness produce
typically travels over 1,000 miles before it reaches the consumer. Yet this
food has a far easier time reaching the supermarket than do low-income urban
residents. Food industry consolidation and supermarket redlining of low-income
areas, has produced a chaotic and vastly inequitable US food system where
small farmers battle for dwindling market opportunities and low-income consumers
face prodigious barriers to obtaining healthy food.
Fortunately, an
emerging national grassroots movement is turning this common plight into
common ground, challenging a US food system that lacks two vital ingredients
- community and security.
Merging food sufficiency
and sustainability with grassroots economic development, activists from
New York to Austin, Texas, to Los Angeles are forging an alternative US
food chain of urban farms, farmers' markets and urban-rural agriculture
ventures. Their common goal: making nutritious and affordable food more
available in poor communities.
Stressing locally
based economic development, ecological restoration, hunger prevention and
sustainable agriculture, the community food security movement offers an
innovative approach with far-reaching potential.
Reviving Communities
One of the poorest
sections of San Francisco is home to one promising urban ecology effort.
On any given day, the office of the San Francisco League of Urban Gardeners
(SLUG) bustles with energy as teen-age gardening interns drop by to pick
up paychecks, brag about their vegetable crops, or prod the group's executive
director, Mohammed "Mo" Nuru, to give them more farming work.
Nuru's vision of
a local food base stems, in part, from his memories of growing up in Nigeria
where "everybody farmed" and food security was a strong measure
of a community's strength.
Once strictly a
gardening group, SLUG now promotes small-scale urban agriculture projects
as a means to help economically depressed communities. SLUG's aim, Nuru
explains, is not only to give summer jobs to kids or provide inexpensive
produce to the poor, but also to restore community vitality.
With rows of organic
vegetables, flowers and a greenhouse, SLUG's four-acre Alemany Youth Farm
is a meeting ground for jobs, community pride and nutritious food. In newly
landscaped backyards, Alemany residents tend 6-foot-square planter boxes
filled with tomatoes, collard greens, red chard and string beans - produce
often unavailable in low-income areas. Local households are now gaining
direct access to affordable, nutritious food instead of sacrificing tight
food-stamp budgets to high-priced convenience stores or cross-town bus trips
in search of a supermarket.
A More Democratic
Food System
The Community Food
Security Coalition (CFSC) links 124 groups - comprised of sustainable agriculture
advocates, urban redevelopment organizers and environmental activists, food
banks, family farm networks and anti-poverty organizations - that are working
to build alternative systems of food production and consumption by opening
consumer markets in the US for small-scale, diversified agriculture.
CFSC argues that
the extreme competitive pressure exerted by multinational agri-food corporations
has made it difficult to preserve community-oriented and ecologically conscious
agriculture.
"Our food system
- from production through consumption - has been experiencing major restructuring
in the last 15 years," says Kathleen Fitzgerald, director of the Sustainable
Food Center in Austin, Texas. "And small farmers and low-income consumers
have been on the losing end of these developments."
According to Fitzgerald,
12 million US children go hungry while some 500,000 farms and ranches have
gone under in the past 15 years - a rate of 87 per day.
The goal, explains
Community Food Security Coalition co-founder Andy Fisher, is "a more
democratic food system."
A US Community
Farm Network
The concept of a
food security coalition emerged almost simultaneously on the East and West
coasts in the early 1990s, as researchers and activists began creating new
working relationships between anti-hunger organizations and sustainable-agriculture
groups.
Mark Winne, director
of Hartford Food System, a community gardening and food policy organization
in Hartford, Connecticut, was building a national network of local food
security projects that shared resources and ideas. Meanwhile, UCLA Urban
Planning Professor Robert Gottlieb and researcher Andy Fisher were documenting
the shortcomings of US food policy - as well as the disjointed efforts by
sustainable-agriculture and anti-hunger groups to change it.
In a policy paper
that later would become a cornerstone of the movement, Fisher called for
comprehensive reform of traditional policies to alleviate hunger. "Food
security represents a community need, rather than an individual's plight,"
he wrote. Reorienting the US food economy toward communities, Fisher insisted,
needs to begin with a systemic analysis incorporating issues such as food
industry consolidation, supermarket redlining and excessive reliance on
long-distance transportation of processed commodity crops.
The coalition draws
on several movements with strong, wide-ranging constituencies. Prominent
among these is the sustainable agriculture movement, which has been fighting
to protect small family farmers, while promoting environmentally sound farming
techniques. The community food security concept has helped inject hunger
issues into the sustainable agriculture movement, redirecting attention
to programs that benefit lower-income people.
The California Sustainable
Agriculture Working Group (CSAWG), for example, has played a major role
in developing and implementing community food security plans. Among their
collaborative projects, CSAWG and the California Alliance for Family Farms
are working to create direct marketing relationships between small-scale
diversified farmers and local schools and food banks.
The community food
security movement comes on the heels of similar efforts in developing countries,
especially those in the South, where community-based urban agriculture is
one response to burgeoning unemployment, ecological decay and malnutrition.
According to a 1993 report by the Ottawa, Ontario-based International Development
Research Center (IDRC), "Globally, about 200 million urban dwellers
are now urban farmers, providing food and income to about 700 million people.
In some large Latin American centers, a third of the vegetable demand is
met by urban production."
With "Third
World" conditions of poverty, unemployment and malnourishment mounting
in US cities, Andy Fisher's proposals for community food security programs
caught on quickly. In a time when many progressive groups are retrenching,
food security organizers are literally growing a movement from the grassroots,
directly challenging a food system dominated by agribusiness conglomerates
and their powerful lobbies.
The coalition has
already managed to wrest an important legislative victory from the Republican-led
Congress. The Community Food Security Act (CFSA), a coalition-authored section
of the 1996 US Farm Bill, funds local projects "designed to meet the
food needs of low-income people, increase the self-reliance of communities
in providing for their own food needs and promote comprehensive, inclusive
and future-oriented solutions to local food, farm, and nutrition problems."
Administered by
the US Department of Agriculture (USDA), the CFSA will provide $16 million
through the year 2002 to community-based food programs. Grassroots organizations
would receive one-time seed grants to build self-sustaining economic relationships
between farmers, food stores and low-income consumers. The funding, albeit
meager, strengthens alternative concepts and institutions to address the
structural, economic and nutritional problems of people who are locked out
of the system.
New Links; New
Twists
Some Community Supported
Agriculture (CSA) arrangements - in which nearby residents fund local farmers
in exchange for a season's worth of crops - are taking a new twist. In Los
Angeles, the Southland Farmers' Market and UCLA are collaborating on a CSA
project that delivers fresh farm produce weekly to low-income neighborhoods.
In the heart of
Eastside, the poorest neighborhood in Austin, Texas, organizers have set
up a community garden and farmers' market in a vacant lot. More than 40
percent of Eastside's families live below the poverty line, hunger and nutrition
problems are widespread and the supermarkets are few. The community garden
serves as a hub for nutrition education for families and grows enough produce
to provide each resident with one vegetable or fruit every day of the year.
Every weekend, the Eastside Community Farmers' Market sets up shop alongside
the neighborhood garden, featuring more than 20 local farmers, many of them
certified organic growers.
A pilot effort in
Oakland, California, has sought to bring farm produce to food banks and
residential rehabilitation centers by brokering produce sales from local
farmers to food service managers.
In Austin and other
cities, activists are promoting municipal food policy councils and linking
food security and access to reliable transportation. A special food-shopping
bus route in Austin provides low-income consumers from Eastside with transportation
to markets offering cheaper, better produce than can be found in neighborhood
convenience stores. CFSA's Andy Fisher stresses the need to educate municipalities.
"They deal with water, utilities and housing, but they don't deal with
food as a municipal issue," Fisher says.
It is evident that
grassroots groups, by themselves, lack the time and resources to challenge
the daunting inequities of the national food system and international forces
of industry consolidation. Movement organizers do not expect their coalition,
nor any congressional legislation, to be a panacea for such mammoth trends.
But they are redefining progressive food aid approaches, broadening and
diversifying policy debates and creating a dynamic coalition with far-reaching
potential.
Christopher Cook
is a San Francisco-based journalist. John Rodgers is a healthcare researcher.
Adapted from a Backgrounder
report by the Institute
for Food and Development Policy, 398 60th St., Oakland, CA 94618, (800) 274-7826.
The Earth: The
Ultimate Safety Net
In 1992, the US
Department of Agriculture authorized the Farmers' Market Nutrition Program
(FMNP) to supply fresh-produce vouchers to recipients of Women, Infants
and Children (WIC) assistance. In its first three years, the program issued
vouchers to some 800,000 WIC recipients in 24 states, the District of Columbia
and the Cherokee nation. These vouchers have been redeemed at hundreds of
farmers' markets that participate in the program. Although impressive, these
aggregate numbers belie the minimal funding committed to the FMNP: Each
WIC participant gets just $20 a year in farmers' market coupons to supplement
food stamps.
According to Kai
Siedenberg, coordinator of the California Sustainable Agriculture Working
Group, 87 percent of the 6,615 farmers nationwide who have participated
in the FMNP have increased their overall sales. And for many WIC recipients,
the program is their first entrée into the fresh-produce market.
Tom Haller, head of the California Alliance for Family Farms, cited a CAFF
survey that found that most WIC recipients had doubled their intake of fresh
fruits and vegetables since entering the program.
But, with welfare
cutbacks, food security activists are working hard to fill the void left
by a fraying federal safety net and overstretched public and private funds.
Most government food aid programs never were designed as a long-term solution
to poverty and hunger, but rather as a plan of last resort.
Meanwhile, the CFSA
money provided by the USDA falls far short of the need. In 1996, 121 locally
based program requested more than $21 million - only $1 million was available.
800 Million Urban Farmers Worldwide
NEW YORK - Urban farming is helping to lift hundreds of millions of people out of extreme poverty and is improving the health and nutrition of the world's city dwellers. According to a report by the United Nations' Development Program's Urban Agriculture Network, urban agriculture may be practiced by as many as 800 million people worldwide - in developing and developed countries alike.
Urban agriculture - which is most prevalent in Asia - ranges from growing crops on rooftops to raising livestock in backyards and farming fish in ponds, streams and lagoons.
For the poorest of the poor, urban agriculture provides access to food and helps stamp out malnutrition. For the "stable poor," it provides a source of income and high quality food at a low cost. For middle-income families, it offers the possibility of savings and a return on investment in urban property.
The world's poorest urban households spend as much as 90 percent of their income on food. For these people, urban agriculture offers an opportunity for a better diet and a chance to shift household spending toward other needs, such as health care and housing.
In Sao Paulo, Brazil, urban households - rich and poor - devote about 50 percent of their income to food. In Lima, Peru, the rate climbs to 70 percent, and in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, it is as high as 80 percent.
Urban agriculture is also helping to create jobs. In some cities, as many as two-thirds of all families are engaged in agriculture, with as many as a third of these having no other source of income.
But benefits of urban agriculture extend beyond better nutrition, poverty reduction and jobs for the poor. The environmental benefits are equally significant.
Urban agriculture turns waste from a problem into a resource, reduces the public cost of waste management and provides a better living environment. In Khartoum, Sudan, about one-fourth of the city's garbage is consumed by farm animals. And in California, 200 wastewater reclamation plants save nearly 800,000 cubic meters (28.3 million cubic feet) of water a day, with most of the treated effluent put to agricultural use.
"It has become clear that urban agriculture has been underrated in all but a handful of countries - and mostly overlooked by the international development community," says UNDP Assistant Administrator Anders Wijkman. The UNEP report concludes that "By putting simple laws into effect, urban agriculture can become a formidable economic force in the 21st century."
Adapted from Urban Agriculture: Food, Jobs and Sustainable Cities. To request a copy, contact UNDP, Urban Development Unit, DC1-2080, 1 United Nations Plaza, New York, NY 10017, Fax: (212) 906-6471.