Environmentalists Condemn Deadly Fashion Trend For Endangered Species Product
Continued global trade in "shatoosh" may lead to further deaths, conservationists say
Submitted by Tibetan Plateau Project
December 1, 1998

San Francisco -- In the wake of the recent death of China's chief conservation official responsible for protecting the rare Tibetan antelope, environmentalists are calling on government agencies to step up efforts to halt the illegal trade in the antelope's wool and for more responsible practices by the global fashion industry.

On November 8, Zhaba Duojie, an ethnic Tibetan official responsible for the protection of the antelope in China's Hoh Xil wildlife reservation, Qinghai Province, was found shot dead in his home in the town of Yushu, Zhidoi county. Zhaba's death follows the murder of his brother-in-law and predecessor, Suonan Dajie, who died in a gunfight with antelope poachers four years ago.

China's Hoh Xil reservation is located on the eastern edge of the remote Tibetan Plateau, home to the Tibetan antelope (Pantholops hodgsonii) and other endangered species, including snow leopard, wild yak and Tibetan wild donkey. The antelope, which is accorded the highest level of wildlife protection in China, is targeted for "shahtoosh," its valuable fur.

"The poaching of Tibetan antelope and trade in shahtoosh are illegal under Chinese and international law and are acts of sheer greed," said Justin Lowe, director of the Tibetan Plateau Project. "This tragedy demonstrates that renewed efforts are required worldwide to stop the black market shatoosh trade."

A Chinese government report released December 10 concluded that poaching on the Tibetan Plateau has pushed the antelope "to the verge of extinction," according to the Associated Press.

"Since the end of the 1980s, the Tibetan antelope population has been declining sharply because of large-scale hunting," the State Administration of Forestry said in its report, estimating that only 50,000-75,000 survived in China in 1995.

"They are now rarely seen, even in many places that used to be the Tibetan antelope's major habitats, and the animal is now on the edge of extinction," the report said.

In the US, the Tibetan Plateau Project and New York's Wildlife Conservation Society are developing a proposal for the US Fish and Wildlife Service to place the Tibetan antelope on the US Endangered Species list, a move that would make trade in shahtoosh a federal crime.

Zhaba headed the "Wild Yak Brigade" anti-poaching squad that attempted to halt illegal hunting in the eastern region of the vast Plateau. Poachers sometimes kill hundreds of antelope at a time, stripping their hides and leaving bloody carcasses littering the Tibetan grasslands. The antelope wool is smuggled to the Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir, where it is manufactured into scarves and shawls that are considered the world's most luxurious -- and expensive -- woolen products. Shahtoosh accessories may sell for $10,000 or more apiece in First-World fashion capitals.

The China Youth Daily initially reported that Zhaba, who was also a local Communist Party official, was murdered by unidentified gunmen. Police later told the Yangcheng Evening News that Zhaba killed himself during a domestic dispute, a claim the conservationist's colleagues have reportedly disputed.

World-renowned wildlife expert George Schaller of the Wildlife Conservation Society, who has researched Tibetan Plateau species for a decade and is the foremost authority on the Tibetan antelope, estimates that only 75,000 antelope survive, their numbers decimated by relentless hunting. Based on shahtoosh seizures, experts speculate that at least 2,000-4,000 antelope are killed annually to supply this luxury trade.

Although the antelope is protected by Chinese law, wildlife officials are outnumbered by poachers and too understaffed to effectively protect the species. Gangs of armed hunters roam the remote Chang Tang protected area in northern Tibet, shooting antelope and selling the shahtoosh to international smugglers.

In October, 14 Tibetan poachers were convicted of slaughtering 500 antelope and trafficking in 200 hides, and were given prison terms of up to 13 years and fines of $1,800 each.

"Antelope poachers are greedy, ruthless and determined," Lowe said. "Motivated by the high value of shahtoosh, they will go to great lengths to maintain this lucrative, illicit trade. How many antelope, and how many conservationists, have to die before the world takes notice and ends the shahtoosh trade?"

Although international treaty has forbidden trade in shahtoosh since 1975, wildlife and enforcement authorities are struggling to stem global demand for the luxury product. Shahtoosh seizures in Paris, London, Delhi and Hong Kong demonstrate the extent of the illicit wildlife trade.

CNN Interactive reported last July that in the US "Shahtoosh shawls are being sold nationwide in department stores and in high-end boutiques" -- a violation of international and US law. The US Fish and Wildlife Service confiscated a shahtoosh consignment from an upscale New York boutique last May, but the agency is not discussing the seizure, citing its ongoing investigation.

The American fashion press has relentlessly promoted shahtoosh. Articles in Vogue, Elle, and Harper's Bazar have touted "toosh" as the ultimate must-have luxury item for high-flying trend-setters. Whether honestly or disingenuously, consumers and vendors who traffic in shahtoosh often disclaim any knowledge of the fabric's bloody heritage.

"The fashion press needs to act more responsibly to inform consumers that shahtoosh is internationally designated contraband that is contributing to the decimation of an endangered species," said the Tibetan Plateau Project's Lowe.

He noted that news of Zhaba's death came as hundreds of Americans demonstrated against fur sales at the opening of the Christmas shopping season in dozens of cities around the US on the Friday after Thanksgiving.

"Unlike traditional furs sold in America, shahtoosh is made from an endangered species. 'Save the antelope, ban shahtoosh,' should become the new rallying cry of conservationists nationwide," said Lowe.

The Tibetan Plateau Project of Earth Island Institute promotes biodiversity conservation and the sustainable development of local communities in the five-nation Tibetan Plateau region by encouraging research and strengthening international, US and foreign conservation laws and policies.

For more information on the Tibetan antelope, visit the Tibetan Plateau Project website at http://www.earthisland.org/tpp/antelope or, contact:

Justin Lowe
Director, Tibetan Plateau Project
415-788-3666
tppei@earthisland.org
www.earthisland.org/tpp